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Field notes.
No sponsored round-ups, no top-ten hidden gems that are all in the same guidebook. Just what we learned getting it wrong first.
72 hours in Athens, done properly
The Acropolis before the buses, the neighbourhoods worth your evenings, the museum everyone skips, and how to eat well for twelve euros.
The guides we are writing now.
One published, eight in progress. We would rather publish nothing than publish filler, so these appear as they are finished.
Which islands connect by direct flight, and when a stop through Athens is unavoidable.
Santorini without the crowds
Shoulder-season dates, the villages on the quiet side, and where the islanders actually eat.
When to book a flight to Greece
Six to ten weeks out, Tuesdays, and the two weeks in August you should simply avoid.
A two-week Cyclades route that works
Naxos, Paros, Ios, Santorini, in that order, for reasons involving flight schedules and crowds.
Mykonos on a normal budget
Where to stay away from the beach clubs, and the three tavernas that have not changed their prices.
What a week in Greece actually costs
Line by line, in three versions: backpack, normal, and the one with the cave suite.
The Athens neighbourhoods guide
Koukaki, Pangrati, Exarchia, Kypseli, what each one is actually like after dark.
Crete in one week, west to east
Chania, the Samaria gorge, the south coast, and why you should skip the north-east entirely.
Read enough. Go.
Every guide ends the same way: with the cheapest route there.